Zeila (also spelled Saylac or Zayla) sits at the far northwestern tip of Somaliland, where a low coastline of coral and sand meets the Gulf of Aden just 60 kilometers from Djibouti. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Africa — and one of the most atmospheric places I have ever been.
Founded more than a thousand years ago, Zeila was for centuries one of the most important trading ports on the African side of the Gulf of Aden. Arab merchants, Indian traders, Ethiopian highland kingdoms, and Ottoman administrators all passed through, leaving layers of architecture and culture that time has softened but not entirely erased.
The Old Town
The old town of Zeila is a remarkable survival. Streets of coral-stone buildings, their facades weathered by salt air and time, create a haunted architectural landscape unlike anything else in the region. Many buildings are empty or ruined — the population of Zeila has declined dramatically from its mercantile heyday — but the bones of a once-great city are still visible.
The Ottoman-era mosque (sometimes called the Tomb of Sheikh Ibrahim) is one of the most striking structures — a domed building that has stood for centuries overlooking the harbor. Several other ancient mosques survive in various states of preservation.
The Coral Islands
Zeila is set in a shallow lagoon dotted with small coral islands, accessible by local boat. The islands are entirely uninhabited, edged with white sand, and surrounded by some of the most pristine coral reef in the region. Snorkeling here, with visibility of 20 meters or more, is extraordinary — and you will almost certainly be the only person doing it.
The Atmosphere
Zeila today is a small, quiet town of a few thousand people — fishermen, small traders, a few government officials. Time moves slowly here. The old dhow harbor still sees some activity, particularly in the dhow building season. Sitting on the waterfront in the late afternoon, watching the light turn the old buildings to gold while fishing boats rock gently in the harbor, is an experience of uncommon beauty.
Getting There
Zeila is approximately 4–5 hours by road from Hargeisa, via Berbera and the northern coastal route. The road passes through dramatic scenery — arid plains, salt flats, and eventually the Gulf coastline. A 4WD vehicle is recommended. There is basic accommodation in Zeila, or you can do a long day trip from Berbera. Arrange a local guide in advance — Zeila sees very few visitors and logistics require local knowledge.